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How to keep your yarn from tangling while doing C2C graphghans

How to keep your yarn from tangling while doing C2C graphghans

How does one keep yarn from tangling when one is doing a C2C graphghan in crochet?

The first few pictures are of a 2 colour graphghan in the making.

The first thing I do when I think graphghan is roll out some shuttles depending on the requirement of each colour. There is nothing fancy about this. Weavers do this all the time…..They wind, small shuttles/bobbins full of the colour they need and keep them ready before they begin weaving. In India they usually use a small wooden peg. Here, since I don’t have a wooden peg and I think it may be unwieldy…I have used thick paper folded into shuttles that yarn or thread can be wound on.

For this 2 colour graphghan the  major colour is blue and the colour where the figure is coming in is silver white. So for the time begin I have wound up three shuttles, 2 with blue and one with white.

I am aware this will not be enough so…as I go by and am taking a break I will be  making some more shuttles. you can do this before you begin work too….

The next thing we will need is large washing pegs. These are somewhat middle sized….and since I can’t get large ones…I make sure that my shuttles are never too large. I have heard that Walmarts carry these giant washing pegs…so for those who live in the US or where you have a Walmarts can buy them from there.

Here, I worked the first 40 rows in just one colour working directly from the huge spool of yarn…..but once I had to change colours I began to use the shuttles.

Here is how I use the washing pegs…..only the shuttle that is currently being used is not pegged onto the work itself….the rest are secured. So as I finish the blue….I will move onto the white if necessary….And then I will peg in the blue and let free the white…and so  on. you can work in as many colours you like in this manner…..This is very useful especially when you reach the end of the row and have to flip your work over to begin the next row in C2C.

This is how I worked a C2C graphghan with many colours without getting it tangled…..

First 4 colours….

7 colours with the white repeating …so 8 shuttles…..

Crocheters use different methods….I find this most convenient.

Some use Hangers…They wind each colour directly onto the wash peg and clip the shuttles onto a clothes hanger….then when they reach the end of the row…they simply flip over the hanger along with the graphghan.

Others use boxes with holes in them. They bring out the working end of the yarn through the holes so that there is no chance of tangling……

I found some all of these pics on the internet…..

You must experiment and find which way you find the most handy to work with.

Suvastika Pattern in C2C

Suvastika

Suvastika is an ancient religious symbol originating from India.  It is one of the most sacred and auspicious symbols in Hinduism and dates back at least 11,000 years.

The name Suvastika comes from the Sanskrit (Devanagari: स्वस्तिक). Suvastika in Sanskrit means any lucky or auspicious object, and in particular a mark made on persons and things to denote auspiciousness, or any piece of luck or well-being.

The Hindus represent it as the Universe in our own spiral galaxy in the fore finger of Lord Vishnu. This carries most significance in establishing the creation of the Universe and the arms as ‘Kaal or time, a calendar that is seen to be more advanced than the lunar calendar where the seasons drift from calendar year to calendar year.

The Suvastika symbol is seen in, the Indus Valley civilization, which is now proven to be more than 8000 years old.

It is also an auspicious symbol in the two religions which arose from Hinduism – Buddhism and Jainism. The Suvastika was used in Tibet and China, And was also introduced to Indonesia by Hindu kings. Since Hindu civilization was widespread…..It was also used in  Vietnam, Cambodia ,the Mayan and Aztecs civilizations etc in the ancient world. 

Materials:

Nature’s cotton fromm Soft Feather yarn

white : 300gms

Orange : 300 gms

Hook: 3:00mm

Size:

22 inches by 17 inches (22″/17″)

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

ss – slip stitich

hdc – half double crochet

(dc – double crochet – if you wish to make a bigger piece use dcs in your C2C instead of half dcs….

Or

You can use a much thinner thread or yarn with a smaller hook)

C2C

1.Chain 5,

hdc in the 3rd chain from hook,

then one hdc in each of the next two chains

This is one block or cluster.

Turn over.

chain 5,

Repeat 1

then, ss in the 2 chain space of the first block,

2 ch; 3  hdc in the same chain space,

you have your second block….Turn over

Repeat as above

Things to Remember while doing a C2C

  1. Always keep count…that is very important….at every step make sure the number of steps tally to the counter of blcoks given in the pattern. Once you finish a row…recount the total number of blocks in each colour in that row and tally the total blocks. Proceed only when the tally is exact.
  2. Refrain from being distracted by watching TV, Internet etc.(just my suggestion, I learnt this the hard way..:-))
  3. Keep the graph and the written instructions in front of you at all times.
  4. I carry yarn only for upto 3 blocks….anything more than while using dc or hdc I find shows the carryign thread esp if it  is of a birght or  contrasting colour shows through.  In tapestry it is easy to carry the colours forward beocs the scs are short stitiches and does no tallow the carrying thread show.
  5. By making shuttles of each colour…I simply add  a new colour as and when the colour needs to be used after three blocks.  Below please go thorugh the link which wI use to keep the yarn’thread from tangling.

    How To Keep The Yarn from Tangling

http://https://crochetnmore.wordpress.com

GRAPH:

As you can see in this graph, the picture has some pixels in the wrong places though I used Stitch-board to do this one. The dots haven’t come out right at all and the lower leg of the right had side of the Suvastika had a few pixels out of place. So use the graph only   to help you visualise the final project.

I graphed this one by hand….

Begin from the bottom right side corner……

Increasing Rows

Row 1 (L to R): (Grey) x1, (1 Block)

Row 2 (R to L): (Grey) x2, (2 Blocks)

Row 3 (L to R): (Grey) x3, (3 Blocks)

Row 4 (R to L): (Grey) x4, (4 Blocks)

Row 5 (L to R): (Grey x5), (5 Blocks)

Row 6 (R to L): (Grey) x6, (6 Blocks)

Row 7 (L to R): (Grey) x7, (7 Blocks)

Row 8 (R to L): (Grey) x8, (8 Blocks)

Row 9 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (9 Blocks)

Row 10 (R to L): (Grey) x3,  (Orange) x1, (Grey) x6, (10 Blocks)

Row 11 (L to R): (Grey) x7,  (Orange) x1, (Grey)  x3, (11 Blocks)

Row 12 (R to L): (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2,( Grey) x7), (12 Blocks)

Row 13 (L to R): (Grey) x8, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x4, (13 Blocks)

Row 14 (R to L): (Grey) x4, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x8, (14 Blocks)

Row 15(R to L): (Grey) x8, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x5, (15 Blocks)

Row 16 (R to L): (Grey) x5, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x9, (16 Blocks)

Row 17 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x5, (17 Blocks)

Row 18 (R to L): (Grey) x6, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x9, (18 Blocks)

Row 19 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x6, (19 Blocks)

Row 20 (R to L): (Grey) x7, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x9, (20 Blocks)

Row 21 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x7, (21 Blocks)

Row 22 (R to L): (Grey) x8, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x9, (22 Blocks)

Row 23 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x9, (23 Blocks)

Row 24 (R to L): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x9, (24 Blocks)

Row 25 (L to R): (Grey) x10, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x9, (25 Blocks)

Row 26 (R to L): (Grey) x11, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x9, (26 Blocks)

Row 27 (L to R): (Grey) x11, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x9, (27 Blocks)

Row 28 (R to L): (Grey) x12, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x9, (28 Blocks)

Row 29 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x13, (29 Blocks)

Row 30 (R to L): (Grey) x14, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x9, (30 Blocks)

Row 31 (L to R): (Grey) x9, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x15, (31 Blocks)

Row 32 (R to L): (Grey) x13,(Orange) x1, (Grey) x2,(Orange) x7, (Grey) x9, (32 Blocks)

Row 33 (L to R): (Grey) x10, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x17, (33 Blocks)

Row 34 (R to L): (Grey) x14, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x3,(Orange) x6, (Grey) x10, (34 Blocks)

Row 35 (L to R): (Grey) x11, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x14, (35 Blocks)

Row 36(R to L): (Grey) x7, ( Orange) x3, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x11 – (36 Blocks)

Row 37(L to R): (Grey) x11, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6 – (37 Blocks)

Row 38(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x12 – (38 Blocks)

Row 39(L to R): (Grey) x13, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x6 – (39 Blocks)

Row 40(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x8, (Grey) x6, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x14,  (40 Blocks)

Row  41(L to R): (Grey) x15, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x5, (Orange) x9, (Grey) x6,   – (41 Blocks)

Row 42(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x10, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x16,  (42 Blocks)

Row  43(L to R): (Grey) x17, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x11, (Grey) x6,   – (43 Blocks)

Row 44(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x12, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x18,  (44 Blocks)

Row  45(L to R): (Grey) x19, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x1, (Orange) x13, (Grey) x6,   – (45 Blocks)

Row 46(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x1, (Orange) x14, (Grey) x20,  (46 Blocks)

Row  47(L to R): (Grey) x21, ( Orange) x13, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6,   – (47 Blocks)

Row 48(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x12, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x18 – (48 Blocks)

DECREASE ON ONE SIDE ONLY

Row 49(L to R): (Grey) x4, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x7, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x11, (Grey) x4, (Orange)x5, (Grey)x6 – (48 Blocks)

Row 50(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x5, (Orange) x10, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x6, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x4 – (48 Blocks)

Row 51(L to R): (Grey) x4, ( Orange) x7, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x9, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6 – (48 Blocks)

Row 52(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x8, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x4,(Orange) x6, (Grey) x5- (48 Blocks)

Row 53(L to R): (Grey) x5, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x8, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6 – (48 Blocks)

Row 54(R to L): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x8, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x4,(Orange) x5, (Grey) x6- (48 Blocks)

Row 55(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x9, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x5 – (48 Blocks)

Row 56(R to L): (Grey) x4, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x10, (Grey) x7, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6,( (48 Blocks)

Row 57(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x6, (Orange) x11, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x5, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x4, – (48 Blocks)

Row 58(R to L): (Grey) x5, ( Orange) x4, (Grey) x7, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x12, (Grey) x5, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6,( (48 Blocks)

Row 59(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x13, (Grey) x20,   – (48 Blocks)

Row 60(R to L): (Grey) x20, ( Orange) x14, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x5, (Grey) x6,   – (48 Blocks)

DECREASING ON BOTH SIDES:

Row 61(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x8, (Grey)x1; (Orange)x6; (Grey) x19,   – (47 Blocks)

Row 62(R to L): (Grey) x18, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x2, (Orange) x7, (Grey) x1, (Orange)x5; (Grey) x6, – (46 Blocks)

Row 63(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x13, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x17,   – (45 Blocks)

Row 64(R to L): (Grey) x16, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x12, (Grey) x6,   – (44 Blocks)

Row 65(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x11, (Grey) x5, (Orange) x6, (Grey) x15,   – (43 Blocks)

Row 66(R to L): (Grey) x14, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x6, (Orange) x10, (Grey) x6,   – (42 Blocks)

Row 67(L to R): Grey) x6, ( Orange) x9, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x3, (Orange)x5; (Grey) x14, – (41 Blocks)

Row 68(R to L): (Grey) x13, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x2, (Grey) x3, (Orange)x8; (Grey) x6, – (40 Blocks)

Row 69(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x7, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x3, (Grey)x3; (Orange)x5; (Grey) x12,   – (39 Blocks)

Row 70(R to L): (Grey) x12, ( Orange) x4, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x4, (Grey) x4, (Orange)x5; (Grey) x6, – (38 Blocks)

Row 71(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x4, (Orange) x4, (Grey)x3; (Orange)x 4; (Grey) x11,   – (37 Blocks)

Row 72(R to L): (Grey) x10, ( Orange) x4, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x3, (Grey) x6, (Orange)x2; (Grey) x6, – (36 Blocks)

Row 73(L to R): (Grey) x15, ( Orange) x2, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x5, (Grey)x10; – (35 Blocks)

Row 74(R to L): (Grey) x10, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x3, (Orange) x1, (Grey) x15,  – (34 Blocks)

Row 75(L to R): (Grey) x18, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x10  –  (33 Blocks)

Row 76(R to L): (Grey) x10, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x17,   –  (32 Blocks)

Row 77(L to R): (Grey) x16, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x9  –  (31 Blocks)

Row 78(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x15,   –  (30 Blocks)

Row 79(L to R): (Grey) x14, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x9  –  (29 Blocks)

Row 80(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x13,   –  (28 Blocks)

Row 81(L to R): (Grey) x12, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x9  –  (27 Blocks)

Row 82(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x11,   –  (26 Blocks)

Row 83(L to R): (Grey) x10, ( Orange) x6, (Grey) x9  –  (25 Blocks)

Row 84(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x10,   –  (24 Blocks)

Row 85(L to R): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x9  –  (23 Blocks)

Row 86(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x5, (Grey) x8,   –  (22 Blocks)

Row 87(L to R): (Grey) x8, ( Orange) x4, (Grey) x9  –  (21 Blocks)

Row 88(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x4, (Grey) x7,   –  (20 Blocks)

Row 89(L to R): (Grey) x7, ( Orange) x3, (Grey) x9  –  (19 Blocks)

Row 90(R to L): (Grey) x9, ( Orange) x3, (Grey) x6,   –  (18 Blocks)

Row 91(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x3, (Grey) x8  –  (17 Blocks)

Row 92(R to L): (Grey) x8, ( Orange) x3, (Grey) x5,   –  (16 Blocks)

Row 93(L to R): (Grey) x5, ( Orange) x2, (Grey) x8  –  (15 Blocks)

Row 94(R to L): (Grey) x8, ( Orange) x1, (Grey) x5,   –  (14 Blocks)

Row 95(L to R): (Grey) x4, ( Orange) x2, (Grey) x7  –  (13 Blocks)

Row 96(R to L): (Grey) x7, ( Orange) x1, (Grey) x4,   –  (12 Blocks)

Row 97(L to R): (Grey) x6, ( Orange) x1, (Grey) x4  –  (11 Blocks)

Row 98(R to L): (Grey) x3, ( Orange) x1, (Grey) x4,   –  (10 Blocks)

Row 99(L to R): (Grey) x9  –  (9 Blocks)

Row 100(R to L): (Grey) x8  –  (8 Blocks)

Row 101(L to R):(Grey) x7  –  (7 Blocks)

Row 102(R to L): (Grey) x6   –  (6 Blocks)

Row 103(L to R):(Grey) x5  –  (5 Blocks)

Row 104(R to L): (Grey) x4  –  (4 Blocks)

Row 105(L to R):(Grey) x3  –  (3 Blocks)

Row 106(R to L): (Grey) x2  –  (2 Blocks)

Row 107(L to R):(Grey) x1  –  (1 Blocks)

That is it….All Done!

To make a wall Hanging….
  1. Frame this
  2. Give this C2C a backing with a thick cloth, and fix a thin cord on the backing to hang it
  3.  Create a crochet edging on the top and bottom, broad enough to wrap around a 1 mm curtain rod/steel/wood/ aluminium rod-pipe etc (cut to size). Then use any edging pattern on the top and the bottom….fold it ….join the top of the edging to the top edge of the C2C on both ends. stick in the rods…if you hace you can enhace the edge of the rods with curtain stoppers…or make your own crochet curtain stoppers. tie a medium thick decorative string on two ends of the top rod and VOILA…you have a lovely wall hanging.

And there you are …A Beautiful Suvastika.…You can use it as a wall hanging in your Pooja Room. Or can roll it and keep it safely and use it just for festive occassions and Sathsangs. Imagine how you can enhance the devotional aura of your home when having a pooja, yagna, Sathsang etc by hanging these sacred symbols on the walls in the room you are holding such sacred functions…..

Hans/Hamsam/Swan Motif

Hans/Hamsam/Swan Motif

So this week’s  wonderful challenge by Tulasi K Reddy  is a swan motif and what bird could be dearer to us after the peacock? It is a great pattern made out of a pinepple motif and I salute the brain that conjured this one up.

Swans have been eulogised in Indian Literature and Hinduism, for many thousands of years….Beautiful, graceful and almost celestial….they have inspired poets and artists all over the world.

In India, the Hamsa, or Hansa,  Arayanna, or heavenly hamsa (swans), are said to live in Manasasaras in the  Himalayas. They are mentioned in , the Ramayana. Hamsa, the swan, is part of the love story of Nala and Damayanthi in the Mahabharatha…where it carries the stories, historical information and messages between the two lovers.

In the West….the most famous contemporary story about the Swan is the fairy tale “The Ugly Duckling”. And what an adorable little tale it is……

The hamsa, or the swan, is often identified with the Supreme Spirit, Ultimate Reality or  Brahman in  Hinduism. The flight of the hamsa symbolizes moksha, the release from the cycle of samsara or life cycles on this earth.

The hamsa is also the vahana of  Saraswathi– the Goddess of knowledge and creative arts, and her husband, God Brahma.

And now on to making some crochet music with the Hamsa

Materials

Anchor #20 – white

Hook

#1:00mm

Abbreviations

ss – slip stitch

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

treble crochet – tc

ss – slip stitich

Pattern

Method

Make a slip stitich

                                     

Row 1:

3 ch up, 1 dc; 2chs; 2dcs; 2chs; 2dc into the magic ring

Pull in the short tail of the magic ring tightening the stitches into a continous row.

Row 2:

3 ch up, 1 dc in next dc; (2dcs 2ch 2dc) in 2ch loop, 3 ch; skip 2 dcs; 2 dcs in 2 ch loop; 2 chs; 3dc in same 2 ch loop do not complete the last dc …holding the last 2 loops on the hook…crochet in a dc in the last dc then pull then yarn over and pull it thru all the 3 loops on the hook. Thus creating an inverted ‘V’ Stitch which we sha call (‘IV’) form now on.

Row 3:

3ch up; skip 2 dc; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2 ch, dc, 3ch, dc into the 3 ch loop;  2ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; dc into dc; skip one dc; dc into next dc,keep two loops on the hook, dc in next dc and pull the yarn thru all the 3 loops on the hook.(IV)

Row 4:

3 ch up, dc  each in next 2 dcs; ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2 ch; Hook  (dc, ch,dc) 3 times  into the 3 chain loop( this is the base of your pineapple stitch); 2 ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop; dc into last dc

Row 5:

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2ch; sc in first dc in 3 ch loop, 3 ch, sc into next dc, 3 ch, repeat until you cover all the dcs and get 4 (3ch) loops( This is the 2nd tier of your pineapple stitch.); 2ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop.

You leave the rest of the stitches on the previous stitches vacant for now…This is where you will work the neck.

Row 6

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2ch; sc in first dc in 3 ch loop, 3 ch, sc into next dc, 3 ch, repeat until you cover all the dcs and get 3 (3ch) loops( This is the 3rd tier of your pineapple stitch.); 2ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop.

Row 7:

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2ch; sc in first dc in 3 ch loop, 3 ch, sc into next dc, 3 ch, repeat until you cover all the dcs and get 2 (3ch) loops( This is the 4th tier of your pineapple stitch.); 2ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop

Row 8:

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 2ch; sc in first dc in 3 ch loop, 3 ch, sc into next dc, and get one (3ch) loop( This is the 5th tier of your pineapple stitch.); 2ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop

Row 9:

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 4ch; sc in 3 ch loop, 3 ch, ss into sc, 3ch, ss into sc; 4ch; 2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the next 2 ch loop.

Row 10:

5 ch up;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop; 5ch;  2 dc, 2ch, 2dc into the first 2 ch loop

Row 11:

3 ch up; double treble(keeping the last 2 loops on the hook) another double treble and keep all 3 loops on the hook and yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. A petal is formed

3 ch, 1 picot, 3ch; hook in a second petal as above.

Repeat until there are 3 picot loops and 4 petals.( this is the tail of the swan)

Cut the thread and tuck the loose ends in… You are done with the body of the swan.

Now for the Neck and Head…

Row 1:

Join the thread to fifth stitch(double crochet) from your left, of the fourth(4th) row.

3 ch up; dc in one ch loop; dc in next dc, leave the last two loops on the hook, dc in next dc…now pull thru all 3 loops. (IV)

Row 2:

2 ch up;  dc in next dc ;2 dcs in next dc

Row 3:

3ch up, dc in same dc; dc in next dc; (IV)

Row 4:

2 ch up; dc in next dc; 2 dcs in next dc

Row 5:

5 ch up; double treble in same stitch; hdc in next dc; sc in next stitch

Row 6:

one chain up; sc in next stitch; dc in next stitch, double treble in same stitch

Row 7:

5 ch up, double treble in same stitch; dc in next stitch; hdc  in next stitch

Row 8:

2 ch up; hdc in next dc; dc in next stitch; 2 dc in the last stitch

Row 9:

3 ch up; dc in next dc; dc in next dc, (IV)

Beak

( I made a little change to the pattern here….I wanted the beak to be a little authentic…so I used a #40 Anchor cotton in black and did 3 scs in a row after row 9

Then cut the thread tucked it in and added a #8 Pearl red DMC(also available in Anchor)

( If you don’t have #40 just use one thread of a 6 skein Hank of embroidery floss for the black portion and 2 threads of embroidery thread in red for the beak)

Now Using the red

If you don’t wish to change the thread continue with the same thread and finish off.

Row 10:

2 ch up; dc in same stitch

There you go…..a perfect Swan.

Star Burst Bauble/Hot Pad/Pendant

Star Burst

This is an extremely easy, fun project. We had this as part of a Weekly  challenge by my young,dynamic and talented pal, Tulasi K Reddy,  in our group and I just leapt at the chance…..mainly becos this was part of my to do list for the longest of time. It looks complicated to a novice but is really so easy and is an apt project for a beginner.

Material

You can use any thread you wish just adjust the hook size accordingly.

I used:

Soft Feather Nature’s cotton in Turquoise green and cobalt blue

Hook Size: 3:00mm. This is my favourtie size for Nature’s cotton yarn.

Abbreviations Used:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ss – slip stitch

Pattern

Make a Magic Circle

Round 1: Chain 3 up, 3dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; ss.

 

Round 2: ss into the next dc; chain up and sc in same dc.

Now into the 3 chain loop –  sc,hdc,8 dc,hdc

sc in the second dc of previous round then repeat sc, hdc,8dc,hdc  in next loop….

Repeat until all 4 loops are covered.

Make 5 such squares

 

Joining the squares and forming another row around the squares:

Join the cobalt blue by an ss to the sc in between the 2 petals. then scs in every hdc and dc.

Continue until  you cover 2 petals or are mid way.

 

Now join the 2nd motif to the first using a sc.

 

 

Continue joining all the motifs one by one unitl you have a straight line.

Then continue the sc row on the lower part of every motif.

The pics I took of the joining part didn’t come out right….balancing the camera with one hand and trying to hold the petals open with another just didn’t work…..so am using this pic that I found in the net…..to show you how to join the motifs.

You need to take one half one petal of 2 motifs that lie adjecent to each other and join them with an sc…then move on to the next two petals. You will then get 5 petals.

 

Depending on the size you wish you can use yarn or thread.

Cotton Yarn gives a a size that cna be used as a coaster….Alternatively you can make this is 3  colours too….Using birght colours to use in a child’s room or jsut above the crib for your baby.

A talented crochet buddy, Dipti Mallapur, made this as a pendant in #40 thread and it looked glorious!

This is a great little piece to hook in when you just want to have fun and take it easy….I hope you do…

Have Fun!

 

Vintage Table Runner

Vintage Table Runner

Crochet Chronicles: 

My elderly Parents live with my sister or she lives with them….depending on how you wish to see it…:-) . Both of them are in their 80s and are active both mentally and physically. Though my Father suffers from Parkinsons ( He still hasn’t reached that stage where he needs help)…he is always positive and a wall of strength to all of us. My Mother holds our home together….and is such a superlative cook…that we look so forward to meal times. Now she has taught the lady who helps out at home, Vrindha all her culinary tricks so that even when she does become incapacitated…her darling grandsons will still get those scrumptious delights. Parents….What are we without them? Who will love us, care for us, worry about us and be there for us like them? As my Parents grow older and more feeble…..I feel this sense of fear and despair at facing a future without them.

But enough of such dark and despairing thoughts…The reason I wrote about my Parents is because, this particular runner was made at my Mother’s insistence. My sister bought a new dining table and a chest of drawers to go with it…and all my Mom’s old and beautiful collection of laces wouldn’t do for this. So My scrupulous Mom…who has exceedingly very high standards on what goes on her furniture rang me up and told me that she wanted me to make her a table runner.

I was so thrilled! I never thought that my work would ever be good enough for her….I know she loves pastels and white….so I made this one in shades of ice pink, peach, lolly pop pink and white, mint green, light yellow and white. Though the original pattern is all in white…I thought this made an interesting  picture. What do you think?

 

Materials Used:

Anchor cotton #20 in pastel shades and white. I used 5 balls of white and 10 gms and a little less of each of the other colors.

Hook 0.75mm I normally use 0.9mm to 1.25mm with #20 thread…but decided to experiment with a much smaller hook. I like the lacy effect, though hooking is hard on the hand.

Pattern:

Since this is a vintage pattern, there is no graph as such…but there is a written pattern at this link, below:

http://freevintagecrochet.com/doilies/7717-doily-pattern.html

And as Always…here is the photo tutorial….

Runner measures about 14 x 38½ inches.

Each motif measures about 3½ inches in diameter.

FIRST MOTIF

Starting at center, ch 6. Join with sl st to form ring.

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1st rnd: Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring. Join with sl st in 1st sc.

 

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2nd rnd: Ch 5 (to count as 1 dc and ch 2), * dc in next sc, ch 2. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-2 with sl st in 3rd st of starting ch-5 (12 sps).

 

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3rd rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc in same place as sl st, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join.

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4th rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st, * dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join.

 

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5th rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as 3 ch, *dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc,  ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in next sc, ch 3, 2 dc  in next dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, tr in 1st sc.

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Here I have changed the pattern from the original a little…

6th rnd: sc in same stitch as ss, Ch 7,  sc in top of tr just made, * ch 10, 1 sc in center st of next ch-7. Repeat from * around. Join.

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7th rnd: Sl st in next 2 dc, * in next loop make (4 sc, ch 4) 3 times and 4 sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off.

 

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SECOND MOTIF … Work same as for First Motif until 6th rnd is com­pleted.

 

7th rnd: Sl st in next 2 dc, * in next loop make 4 sc, ch 4 and 4 sc; ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch-4 loop on First Motif, ch 2, in same loop on Second Motif make 4 sc, ch 4 and 4 sc. Repeat from * once more. Complete rnd with no more joinings.

 

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Make 4 x 11 motifs, joining them as First Motif was joined to Second Mo­tif and leaving one large loop free be­tween joinings.

 

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Unfortunately..I was travelling while the next part was being hooked and the pics just didn’t come out right…..However the written pattern below will def help..

FILL-IN-MOTIF … Attach thread in center ch-4 loop of any large loop between joinings.

1st rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc where thread was attached, * ch 5, 3 dc in center ch-4 loop of next large loop. Repeat from * 2 more times; ch 5, sl st in 3rd st of starting ch-3.

2nd rnd: In next ch-5 loop make 4 sc, ch 5 and 4 sc, * 4 sc in next loop, ch 2, sl st in last ch-5 loop, ch 2, 4 sc in same loop as last 4 sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off. Press through damp cloth. Starch lightly and press.

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Crochet Indian Vegetable(Karela/BitterGourd)

Crochet Indian Vegetable Motif(Karela/BitterGourd)

We Indians just love our veggies…….and have thousands and thousands of recipes for each vegetable. Our ancient and traditional meals are wholly balanced with proteins, carbs, vitamins,minerals etc taken into consideration….they r definetely not the over spiced oily version that seems to be passed off as Indian cooking commercially.

http://healthbenefitsofeating.com/fruit/15-health-benefits-karela/

One veggie that is a great favourite and is full of nutrients is Karela or Pavakka(bitter gourd). Since there aren’t any crochet Karela to be found…I have just created a motif pattern for this wonderful all Indian veggie.

Materials used

Anchor #20 green

Hook #1.25mm

Abbreviations Used

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ss – slip stitch

Pattern

Row 1

chain 4; 3dc into the first chain (4 stitches)

Row 2

3ch up, 1dc in same stitch(increase); 1 dc in the next 2 stitches; 2 dc into the last stitch(increase) (6 stitches)

Row 3

3ch up, 1dc in same stitch(increase); 1 dc in the next 4 stitches; 2 dc into the last stitch(increase) (8 stitches)

Row 4

3 ch up; dc in each of the following stitches (8 stitches)

Row 5

3 ch up;  decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc; decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc; dc in dc (6 stitches)

Row 6

3 ch up;decrease by one in the next 2 stitches;decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc (4 stitches)

Cut the thread.

Now you need to make the ridges on the Karela..

Make a ss and join to the tip of the motif. We will be working on the top of the motif…working in a vertical line across the surface of the motif.

we will be making 3 ridge lines along the motif.

the pattern for the ridge line is….

ss, sc; hdc,hdc, sc, ss;

Repeat this until the end of the line…u don’t have to cut the thread…just make another ss and return along the next line to the other end and then one more time.

Now ss around the motif and when you reach the narrowest tip 2 chs; ss in the first ch (this creates a very thin and narrow tip) and continue ss until the rest of the motif.

Recipes for Karela

https://www.tarladalal.com/recipes-using-bitter-gourd-214

Damaru ( An Indian drum)

DAMARU(Shiva’s celestial drum)

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The damaru is very common throughout the Indian subcontinent. The damaru is known as a power drum, and when played, it is believed to generate spiritual energy. It is associated with the Hindu deity Shiva. It is believed that Sanskrit language was recognized by the drumbeats of the damaru (see Shiva Sutra for the sounds), and his performance of the cosmic dance of tandava. The damaru is used by itinerant musicians of all stripes, due to its small portable size.

For more information on the Damaru….Pls check out this blog post.

http:/http://www.hinduwebsite.com/hinduism/concepts/damaru.asp

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Materials Required

#20 Anchor thread in – Off white, light beige and brown

Hook #1.25mm

2 plastic cirlces or rounds cut out of a palstic mat(can use old table mats)

Polyfibre for stuffing

Two med sized beads…of any texture or colour

Pattern

Make the base of the Damaru

Begin with the off white thread

Magic knot

First Round

sc into the magic knot ; ss

(total stitches 6)

When you hook in the scs remember to hook into both the loops of each sc.

workinback_zoom

Second Round

2 sc into each continue until end; ss

(total stitches 12)

Third Round

2 sc in first sc; 1sc in next; continue  end; ss

(total stitches 18)

Fourth Round

2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 scs; continue until end; ss

(total stitches 24)

Fifth Round

2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 scs; continue until end ; ss

(total stitches 30)

Cut the thread…and tuck it in.

We Now Begin the rim of the drum

 Add the light beige

 6th Round

2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 scs; continue until end; ss

(total stitches 36)

7th Round

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 Hook only in the front loop….until the end of the body of the damaru

images-6

1sc in each sc; until end; ss

(total stitches 36)

Cut the thread…and tuck it in.

Now we begin the body of the drum

Add the brown

8th Round

 Same as Round 7

(total stitches 36)

9th Round

 Same as Round 7

(total stitches 36)

Begin Decreasing

 10th Round

Reduce one sc every 4 stitches

(total stitches 30)

11th Round

Reduce 1 sc every 3 stitches

(total stitches 24)

12th Round

Reduce 1 sc every 2 stitches

(total stitches 18)

13th Round

 Reduce 1sc every 1sc

(total stitches 12)

14th Round

1 sc in each sc

(total stitches 12)

Now Begin the Increase

15th Round

  2sc in first sc; 1sc in next; continue until end ss

(total stitches 18)

16th Round

2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 2 scs; continue until end; ss

(total stitches 24)

17th Round

 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 3 scs; continue until end; ss

(total stitches 30)

18th Round

 2 sc, 1 sc in each of the next 4 scs; continue until end; ss (total stitches 36)

19th & 20th Rounds

1 sc in each of the following sc

(total stitches 36)

Cut the brown thread…and tuck it in.

 We Now Begin the rim of the drum

 Add the light beige thread

21st Round

Same as round 20th

(total stitches 36)

Cut thread and finish off.

Cut two pastic  rounds slightly smaller than the bases you have made from the old plastic table mat .

Push one of these into the bottom of the damaru so that it stays firm and acts as a sturdy base.

Use enough Polyfibre to give the damaru some shape.

Make a second base and using a needle sew this base to the open portion of the damaru.

Now fix the second base onto the top of the opening of the damaru using a needle to sew it on.

Cut thread and tuck it in.

Now you have to make the thread of the damaru.

Using a needle create a zig zag stitch from one base of the damru to the other…..then turn the damru upside down and make another zig zag stitch the same way.

Fix two medium sized beads to a string and tie it in the middle of the damru..

Lo Behold…Bhagwan Shiva’s Damru is done….

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Japanese Flower Motif Coasters

Japanese Flower Motif Coasters

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These Motifs were just waiting to be made……And I went for it when A Dear Friend and talented crocheted Amanpreet Sokhi created a CAL for it.

 

Here is a graph of the Japanese Flower Motif…….

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This Graph is slightly different…in the last row.

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Here is a Russian blog with a pic tutorial……

http://olavas.blogspot.ae/2011/04/oppskrift-pa-japansk-blomst.html

Another Blog with a tutorial…

http://wouldyoulikeyarnwiththat.blogspot.ae/2012/05/japanese-flower-motif-free-pattern.html?m=1

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HAve fun doing this one..:-D!!

Crochet Rose

Crochet Rose

 

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Crochet Chronicles:

Aren’t roses beautiful? I have yet to meet a person who doesn’t love this glorious genre of flowers. And this is seen in the profusion of patterns created and posted by so many talented crocheters . So today I thought let me make a little rose to go with the hairband that I posted here last week.  This pattern is a very simple one and a very popular one as well….

Materials Used:

Red Rose Thread #10

Hook : 1.5 mm

Tapestry needle

Method:

Depending on how big and how many layers you want your rose to be…Hook in chains in multiples of 3….each 3 chains represents a petal. I am making a little rose to fit in with the hair band that I made.

Hook in 39 chains plus 3. Total 42 chains.

Row 1:

3 ch, skip 3 chains and dc in 4th chain; *3ch, skip 3chains and dc in 4th chain*….continue ** until the end. what you get is a pattern like a ladder…….with 3 chain loops.

 

Row 2:

Now we create the petal on top  of first row.

chain up, sc,hdc, 6 dcs, hdc,sc in the first 3 chain loop created.  hook in *sc,hdc, 6 dcs, hdc,sc*  in the next 3 chain loop and continue until the end.13187647_557521214435258_794491675_n

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Now, slowly roll the petals using the ladder part as the stem. Make sure that when you roll the petals around each other it forms not the shape of a rose. Use a tapestry needle to sew the stem and the inner petals in place so that it stays together.

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And voila…You have a lovely little rose…:-)

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Here are some graphs to make roses uses different combinations of stitches in almost the same way.

crochet flower 46 crochet-flower-patterns-diagrams-craft-craft-6tsvetyi-kryuchkom-6-288x30073eeac1379aba76768baa0da84259d9a-2

Just to practice do try to make some of the other roses as well…..Enjoy yourselves..and above all ..Keep that smile on..Love and Hugs…:-)

Crochet Hair Band

Crochet Hair Band

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Crochet Chronicles:

I don’t have a little girl and I don’t have friends who have little  girls…..All my pal’s daughters, are all grown up and would throw a fit if I even mentioned hair bands…So I have had to use my thick skull as a measurement for this one…:-) Measure your little Princess’s head from the bottom of the left earlobe  all the way across to the bottom of the right earlobe.

Materials Needed for the Hair Band: 

Laura Kitting Cotton  in any color of your choice

Hook : 3:00mm

Nature’s Cotton Yarn

Hook : 2.5 mm

( I haven’t mentioned the amount of yarn required because it is really very minimal)

Elastic(optional) I have used satin ribbon. You can fix a piece of elastic ribbon to attach the two end of the hair band.

Pattern:

You can use any pattern that you wish in 1 or 2 rows to make that band. Since this blog post is for beginner’s I have used  half double crochet(hdc) and double crochet(dc)

Row 1

Make a chain of 75 plus 2. total 77 chains. The last 2 chains are the ones that will create one side of the hair band and will carry you to the next row.

DSC_0323

Row 2: 

hdc in every ch to the end, 3 chs up

 

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Row 3:

dc in every hdc to the end, 2 chs up

 

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Row 4:

hdc in every dc to the end..cut the yarn and tuck the ends into the band.

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Row 5:

The actually works all the way around except at the two ends…

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Add a thinner thread to create a lacey, shell effect around the hairband. I used Nature’s cotton yarn..with a 2.5mm hook.

add the yarn to the first hdc on one side.

3 ch, 2 dc, in the same hdc;

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Skip 2 hdc, ss into the third hdc,

*3 ch and 2dc into same hdc as ss

Skip 2 hdc, ss into the third hdc*.

Continue ** until end of row. then at the turn hook in hdc, 2ch, hdc; 2 ch hdc;

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Then, ss in hdc; then continue **, again at the turn – hook in hdc, 2ch; hdc, 2dc; hdc; ss.

Now attach the required lengths of ribbon/yarn / fabric to both the end of the band , so that you have equal lengths of these on both the sides so that you can tie it and the nape of the neck securing the hair band safely.

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Different ways to make the hairband even more beautiful.

I have used a ribbon and pulled it through the middle dcs of the hairband. You can make a crochet rose or a crochet heart  to accentuate this.

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Try different things for e.g.; a crochet butterfly, or  a satin ribbon flower, a piece of metal jewelry , a brooch anything really….play with your imagination…:-)

There…wasn’t that easy to do? Using the same stitches you can change the pattern ..instead a block of dcs and hdcs you can create a ladder like pattern by hooking in chains in-between the dcs… You can make the hairband much wider or thinner. You can use beads. You will remember how we learnt to use beads and crochet in one of our first lessons.

I hope you practice and make a few hairbands…you can shorten the length of the hairband and use it as a choker ..would’t that be lovely?