Category Archives: crochet

Shree Ganesha C2C Graphghan

Shree Ganesha C2C Graphghan

(Please Note this Pattern has not been tested)

Here…I have used an abstract painting of Bhagawan Ganesha. It’s a one line painting and one I am extremely fond of. The simplicity and the hands that drew this one really astounds me. However turning this into a C2C graph wasn’t all that easy. The Crown and the Tilak just did not come out right when I put the painting through the graph soft ware. So I had to graph those two areas separately.

If you find some mistake in this written pattern please do let me know.

Materials Used

#10 Red Heart Thread – 200 grams

Red Rose Metallic in White – 60 gms

Hook:

#1:25mm

Abbreviations:

I have hooked this in mini C2C…that is in Half Double Crochet

ch – chain

Hdc – Half double chain

ss – slip stitch

 

C2C( Croner to Corner)

  1. Chain 5,

hdc in the 3rd chain from hook,

then one hdc in each of the next two chains

This is one block or cluster.

Turn over.

chain 5,

Repeat 1

then, ss in the 2 chain space of the first block,

2 ch; 3  hdc in the same chain space,

you have your second block….Turn over

Repeat as above.

 

Things to Remember while doing a C2C

  1. Always keep count…that is very important….at every step make sure the number of steps tally to the counter of blocks given in the pattern. Once you finish a row…recount the total number of blocks in each colour in that row and tally the total blocks. Proceed only when the tally is exact.
  2. Refrain from being distracted by watching TV, Internet etc.(just my suggestion, I learnt this the hard way..:-))
  3. Keep the graph and the written instructions in front of you at all times.
  4. I carry yarn only for upto 3 blocks….anything more than while using dc or hdc I find shows the carryign thread esp if it  is of a birght or  contrasting colour shows through.  In tapestry it is easy to carry the colours forward beocs the scs are short stitiches and does no tallow the carrying thread show.
  5. By making shuttles of each colour…I simply add  a new colour as and when the colour needs to be used after three blocks.  Below please go thorugh the link which wI use to keep the yarn’thread from tangling.

How to keep your yarn from getting tangled

To know how to keep your yarn from getting tangled please check my post on the same at the link below.

http://https://crochetnmore.wordpress.com/category/tutorials/

Graph

I cut the sides of the graph so that we get 61/107…where 61 is the width ( one square is equal to 1 block) and 107 is the length.

As always there are a few variant picots which I have swept away or added to ….so that the final picture looks complete….

This is how I have done the crown by hand and the mark on the forehead…..So when you are following the graph….when you reach this part you need to follow the hand graph.

Pattern

Begin from the bottom right side corner……

Increasing Rows

Row 1 (L to R): (Blue) x1, (1 Block)

Row 2 (R to L): (Blue) x2, (2 Blocks)

Row 3 (L to R): (Blue) x3, (3 Blocks)

Row 4 (R to L): (Blue) x4, (4 Blocks)

Row 5 (L to R): (Blue)x5, (5 Blocks)

Row 6 (R to L): (Blue) x6, (6 Blocks)

Row 7 (L to R): (Blue) x7, (7 Blocks)

Row 8 (R to L): (Blue) x8, (8 Blocks)

Row 9 (L to R): (Blue) x9, (9 Blocks)

Row 10 (R to L): (Blue) x10, (10 Blocks)

Row 11 (L to R): (Blue) x11, (11 Blocks)

Row 12 (R to L): (Blue) x12, (12 Blocks)

Row 13 (L to R): (Blue) x13, ( 13 Blocks)

Row 14 (R to L):(Blue) x14, ( 14 Blocks)

Row 15 (L to R):  (Blue)x15, ( 15Blocks)

Row 16 (R to L): (Blue) x16, (16  Blocks)

Row 17 (L to R): (Blue) x17, ( 17 Blocks)

Row 18 (R to L): (Blue) x18, ( 18 Blocks)

Row 19 (L to R): (Blue) x19, ( 19 Blocks)

Row 20 (R to L): (Blue) x20, ( 20 Blocks)

Row 21 (L to R): (Blue) x21, ( 21 Blocks)

Row 22 (R to L): (Blue) x22( Blocks)

Row 23 (L to R): (Blue) x23, ( 23 Blocks)

Row 24 (R to L): (Blue) x24, (24 Blocks)

Row 25 (L to R): (Blue) x25, ( 25 Blocks)

Row 26 (R to L): (Blue) x26, (26 Blocks)

Row 27 (L to R): (Blue) x27, ( 27Blocks)

Row 28 (R to L): (Blue) x28, ( 28Blocks)

Row 29 (L to R): (Blue) x29, (29 Blocks)

Row 30 (R to L): (Blue)x30,  (30 Blocks)

Row 31 (L to R): (Blue) x31, (31 Blocks)

Row 32 (R to L): (Blue)x32,  (32 Blocks)

Row 33 (L to R): (Blue) x31, (33 Blocks)

Row 34 (R to L): (Blue)x32,  (34 Blocks)

Row 35 (L to R): (Blue) x, (35 Blocks)

Row 36 (R to L): (Blue)x,  (36 Blocks)

Row 37 (L to R): (Blue) x, (37 Blocks)

Row 38 (R to L): (Blue)x,  (38 Blocks)

Row 39 (L to R): (Blue) x, (39 Blocks)

Row 40 (R to L): (Blue)x40,  (40 Blocks)

Row 41 (L to R): (Blue) x27, ( White) x1, (Blue) x13, (41 Blocks)

Row 42 (R to L): (Blue) x13,( White) x2, (Blue) x27, (42 Blocks)

Row 43 (L to R): (Blue) x28, ( White) x1, (Blue) x14, (43 Blocks)

Row 44 (R to L): (Blue)x15, ( White) x2,  (Blue) x27, (44 Blocks)

Row 45 (L to R): (Blue) x28, ( White) x2, (Blue) x15, (45 Blocks)

Row 46 (R to L): (Blue)x16, ( White) x2, (Blue) x28, (46 Blocks)

Row 47 (L to R): (Blue) x47, (47 Blocks)

Row 48 (R to L): (Blue)x18,( White) x2, (Blue) x28, (48 Blocks)

Row 49 (L to R): (Blue) x28, ( White) x3, (Blue) x18, (49 Blocks)

Row 50 (R to L): (Blue)x19,( White) x2, (Blue) x29, (50 Blocks)

Row 51 (L to R): (Blue) x30,( White) x2, (Blue) x19, (51 Blocks)

Row 52 (R to L): (Blue)x20,( White) x1, (Blue) x31, (52 Blocks)

Row 53 (L to R): (Blue) x32, ( White) x1, (Blue) x20, (53 Blocks)

Row 54 (R to L): (Blue)x54,  (54 Blocks)

Row 55 (L to R): (Blue) x27, ( White) x1, (Blue) x3,( White) x1, (Blue) x23, (55 Blocks)

Row 56 (R to L): (Blue)x24,( White) x1, (Blue) x2,( White) x3, (Blue) x26, (56 Blocks)

Row 57(L to R): (Blue) x19, ( White) x10, (Blue) x2,( White) x2, (Blue) x24,(57 Blocks)

Row 58(R to L): (Blue)x25, ( White) x2, (Blue) x3,( White) x9, (Blue) x19,(58 Blocks)

Row 59(L to R): (Blue) x18,( White) x4, (Blue) x1,( White) x4, (Blue) x4, (White)x2; (Blue)x26,  (59 Blocks)

Row 60 (R to L): (Blue)x27,( White) x3, (Blue) x9,( White) x3, (Blue) x18, (60 Blocks)

Decreasing One Side

 

Row 61 (L to R): (Blue)x18,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x10, (Blue) x 27, (61 Blocks)

Row 62 (R to L): (Blue)x18,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x10, (Blue) x 27, (60 Blocks)

Row 63 (L to R): (Blue)x18,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x10, (Blue) x 27, (60 Blocks)

Row 64 (R to L): (Blue)x18,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x10, (Blue) x 27, (60 Blocks)

Row 65 (L to R): (Blue)x18,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x10, (Blue) x 27, (60 Blocks)

Row 66 (R to L): (Blue) x36,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x18 , (60 Blocks)

Row 67 (L to R): (Blue) x19,  (White) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x36 , (60 Blocks)

Row 68 (R to L): (Blue) x36,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x19, (60 Blocks)

Row 69 (L to R): (Blue) x19,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x36, (60 Blocks)

Row 70 (R to L): (Blue) x36,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x19, (60 Blocks)

Row 71 (L to R): (Blue) x20,  (White) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x1, (Blue) x36, (60 Blocks)

Row 72 (R to L): (Blue) x35,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x1, (Blue) x20, (60 Blocks)

Row 73 (L to R): (Blue) x20,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x35, (60 Blocks)

Row 74 (R to L): (Blue) x34,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x21, (60 Blocks)

Row 75 (L to R): (Blue) x21,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x34, (60 Blocks)

Row 76 (R to L): (Blue) x34,  (White) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x21, (60 Blocks)

Row 77 (L to R): (Blue) x22,  (White) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x33, (60 Blocks)

Row 78 (R to L): (Blue) x33,  (White) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x22, (60 Blocks)

Row 79 (L to R): (Blue) x16,  (White) x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x22, (60 Blocks)

Row 80 (R to L): (Blue) x22,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x5, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x10, (60 Blocks)

Row 81 (L to R): (Blue) x10,  (White) x7, (Blue) x5, (White) x3, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x32,  (60 Blocks)

Row 82 (R to L):(Blue) x31,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x3, (Blue) x5, (White) x7, (Blue) x10,  (60 Blocks)

Row 83 (L to R): (Blue) x10,  (White) x6, (Blue) x7, (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x1, (Blue) x10,  (60 Blocks)

Row 84 (R to L):(Blue) x30,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x12, (White) x2, (Blue) x10,  (60 Blocks)

Row 85 (L to R): (Blue) x11,  (White) x1, (Blue) x12, (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x1, (Blue) x30,  (60 Blocks)

Row 86 (R to L):(Blue) x29,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x2, (Blue) x11, (White) x2, (Blue) x11,  (60 Blocks)

Row 87 (L to R): (Blue) x12,  (White) x1, (Blue) x12, (White) x1, (Blue) x3, (White) x2, (Blue) x29,  (60 Blocks)

Row 88 (R to L):(Blue) x28,  (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x2, (Blue) x11, (White) x2, (Blue) x12, (60 Blocks)

Row 89 (L to R): (Blue) x13,  (White) x1, (Blue) x11, (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x2, (Blue) x28,  (60 Blocks)

Row 90 (R to L):(Blue) x27,  (White) x3, (Blue) x3, (White) x2, (Blue) x10, (White) x2, (Blue) x13,  (60 Blocks)

Row 91 (L to R): (Blue) x14,  (White) x2, (Blue) x9, (White) x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x3, (Blue) x26,  (60 Blocks)

Row 92 (R to L): (Blue) x26,  (White) x3, (Blue) x4, (White) x2, (Blue) x8, (White) x2, (Blue) x15,  (60 Blocks)

Row 93 (L to R): (Blue) x15,  (White) x3, (Blue) x7, (White) x2, (Blue) x5, (White) x2, (Blue) x26,  (60 Blocks)

Row 94 (R to L): (Blue) x27,  (White) x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x3, (Blue) x6, (White) x2, (Blue) x16,  (60 Blocks)

Row 95 (L to R): (Blue) x17,  (White) x3, (Blue) x4, (White) x3, (Blue) x4, (White) x2, (Blue) x27,  (60 Blocks)

Row 96 (R to L): (Blue) x26,  (White) x2, (Blue) x5, (White) x10, (Blue) x17, (60 Blocks)

Row 97 (L to R): (Blue) x18,  (White) x9, (Blue) x2, (Red)x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x26,  (60 Blocks)

Row 98 (R to L): (Blue) x26,  (White) x2, (Blue) x2, (Red)x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x8, (Blue) x19,  (60 Blocks)

Row 99 (L to R): (Blue) x21,  (White) x4, (Blue) x2, (Red)x1, (Blue) x1, (Red) x1, (Blue) x2, (White) x2, (Blue) x26,  (60 Blocks)

Row 100 (R to L): (Blue) x26,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (Red)x1, (Blue) x1, (Red) x1, (Blue) x28, (60 Blocks)

Row 101 (L to R): (Blue) x28, (Red)x1, (Blue) x1, (Red) x1, (Blue) x1, (White) x2,(Blue) x26, (60 Blocks)

Row 102 (R to L): (Blue) x26,  (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (Red)x1, (Blue) x30, (60 Blocks)

Row 103(L to R): (Blue) x30, (Red)x1, (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (60 Blocks)

Row 104(R to L): (Blue) x26, ( White) x2,  (Blue) x8, (White) x1, (Blue) x23, (60 Blocks)

Row 105 (L to R): (Blue) x23, (White) x2, (Blue) x8, (White)x2, (Blue) x5, (White) x1,  (Blue) x19, (60 Blocks)

Row 106 (R to L): (Blue) x19, (White) x1, (Blue) x5, (White)x2, (Blue) x7, (White) x2,  (Blue) x24, (60 Blocks)

Row 107 (L to R): (Blue) x25, (White) x2, (Blue) x6, (White)x2, (Blue) x5, (White) x1,  (Blue) x19, (60 Blocks)

Decreasing on Both Sides

Row 108 (R to L): (Blue) x18, (White) x2, (Blue) x5, (White)x1, (Blue) x6, (White) x2,  (Blue) x25, (59 Blocks)

Row 109 (L to R): (Blue) x22, (White) x1, (Blue) x1, (White)x2, (Blue) x5, (White) x2,  (Blue) x5, (White) x1,  (Blue) x17, (58 Blocks)

Row 110 (R to L): (Blue) x18, (White) x1, (Blue) x5, (White)x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x17, (57 Blocks)

Row 111 (L to R): (Blue) x22, (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White)x2, (Blue) x4, (White) x2,  (Blue) x4, (White) x2,  (Blue) x17, (56 Blocks)

Row 112 (R to L): (Blue) x17, (White) x1, (Blue) x5, (White)x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x22, (55 Blocks)

Row 113 (L to R): (Blue) x20, (White) x1, (Blue) x1, (White)x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x3, (White) x2,  (Blue) x5, (White) x2,  (Blue) x16, (54 Blocks)

Row 114 (R to L): (Blue) x16, (White) x2, (Blue) x4, (White)x1, (Blue) x3, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x19, (53 Blocks)

Row 115 (L to R): (Blue) x19, (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White)x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x2, (White) x2,  (Blue) x4, (White) x1,  (Blue) x16, (52 Blocks)

Row 116 (R to L): (Blue) x15, (White) x2, (Blue) x3, (White)x2, (Blue) x3, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2,  (Blue) x18, (51 Blocks)

Row 117 (L to R): (Blue) x18, (White) x1, (Blue) x1, (White)x2, (Blue) x1, (White) x1,  (Blue) x5, (White) x2,  (Blue) x3, (White) x1,  (Blue) x15, (50 Blocks)

Row 118 (R to L): (Blue) x14, (White) x2, (Blue) x1, (White)x4, (Blue) x7, (White) x2,  (Blue) x1, (White) x2, (Blue) x16, (49 Blocks)

Row 119 (L to R): (Blue) x15,  (White)x3, (Blue) x1, (White) x1,  (Blue) x8, (White) x7, (Blue) x13, (48 Blocks)

Row 120 (R to L): (Blue) x13, (White) x5, (Blue) x11,  (White) x3, (Blue) x15, (47 Blocks)

Row 121 (L to R): (Blue) x15, (White) x3, (Blue) x12,  (White) x4, (Blue) x12, (46 Blocks)

Row 122 (R to L): (Blue) x12, (White) x1, (Blue) x15,  (White) x2, (Blue) x15, (45 Blocks)

Row 123 (R to L): (Blue) x44, (44 Blocks)

Row 124 (L to R): (Blue) x43, (43 Blocks)

Row 125 (R to L):(Blue) x42, (42 Blocks)

Row 126 (L to R):(Blue) x41, (41 Blocks)

Row 127 (R to L): (Blue) x40, (40 Blocks)

Row 128 (L to R): (Blue) x39, (39 Blocks)

Row 129 (R to L): (Blue) x38, (38 Blocks)

Row 130 (L to R): (Blue) x37, (37 Blocks)

Row 131 (R to L): (Blue) x36, (36 Blocks)

Row 132 (L to R): (Blue) x35, (35 Blocks)

Row 133 (R to L): (Blue) x34, (34 Blocks)

Row 134 (L to R): (Blue) x33, (33 Blocks)

Row 135 (R to L): (Blue) x32, (32 Blocks)

Row 136 (L to R): (Blue) x31, (31 Blocks)

Row 137 (R to L): (Blue) x30, (30 Blocks)

Row 138 (L to R): (Blue) x29, (29 Blocks)

Row 139 (R to L): (Blue) x28, (28 Blocks)

Row 140 (L to R): (Blue) x27, (27 Blocks)

Row 141 (R to L): (Blue) x26, (26 Blocks)

Row 142 (L to R): (Blue) x25, (25 Blocks)

Row 143 (R to L): (Blue) x24, (24 Blocks)

Row 144 (L to R): (Blue) x23, (23 Blocks)

Row 145 (R to L): (Blue) x22, (23 Blocks)

Row 146 (L to R): (Blue) x21, (21 Blocks)

Row 147 (R to L): (Blue) x20, (20 Blocks)

Row 148 (L to R): (Blue) x19, (19 Blocks)

Row 149 (R to L): (Blue) x18, (18 Blocks)

Row 150 (L to R): (Blue) x17, (17 Blocks)

Row 151 (R to L): (Blue) x16, (16 Blocks)

Row 152 (L to R): (Blue) x15, (15 Blocks)

Row 153 (R to L): (Blue) x14, (14 Blocks)

Row 154 (L to R): (Blue) x13, (13 Blocks)

Row 155 (R to L): (Blue) x12, (12 Blocks)

Row 156 (L to R): (Blue) x11, (11 Blocks)

Row 157 (R to L): (Blue) x10, (10 Blocks)

Row 158 (L to R): (Blue) x9, (9 Blocks)

Row 159 (R to L): (Blue) x8, (8 Blocks)

Row 160 (L to R): (Blue) x7, (7 Blocks)

Row 161 (R to L): (Blue) x6, (6 Blocks)

Row 162 (L to R): (Blue) x5, (5 Blocks)

Row 163 (R to L): (Blue) x4, (4 Blocks)

Row 164 (L to R): (Blue) x3, (3 Blocks)

Row 165 (R to L): (Blue) x2, (2 Blocks)

Row 166 (L to R): (Blue) x1, (1 Blocks)

There you are …..Our Ganpathy Bapa Moriya!!! All DONE!!

 

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How to fix a frame to a purse(one that does not have holes)

How to fix a ‘frame with no holes’ to a purse

 

The first thing that I would advise anyone who is going to buy purse frames is …Buy only ones that have perforations on them..They are the easiest to work with.  Buy the ones without holes only if you have no other option. But with online shopping you will find that you are really spoilt for choice.

Here are some of the frames available online

 

The First one is without any holes/perforations on the frame. So to fix your purse to this frame…one has to push the material inbetween the two wedges of the frame and use a plier to calmp on it.

The rest of the frames have holes..so you just sew your purse on to the frame using the holes to attach your crocheted purse to the frame with a tapestry needle and crochet thread or any strong thread of your choice.

When you have a frame with no holes…

Once you finish the crochet part of your purse…finish your lining….and then proceed to fixing the frame onto the purse.

I made a coin purse with a frame which as you can see had no holes. It was very diffiuclt getting the material to stay within the two metal wedges. So my Husband suggested that I attach a metal wire(a thick one ) at the mouth of the purse.

The wire below is usually used for floral arrangements so it is flexible but holds shape.

I then measured the mouth of the purse (which was two hexagons) and cut a strip of wire…to size

             teh

Then…atttach your yarn to the purse…place this strip of wire at the mouth of the purse on one hexagon and begin to sc (single crochet) over it..covering it completely.

Do this on both sides of the mouth of the purse…

Now push the edges into the metal wedges of the frame….use a file or a thin knife or even your crochet hook to push the material…deep inbetween the wedges of the frame.

Use a plier and clamp down hard on the metal frame so that it fits snuggly over the wire in the mouth of the purse. Use a thick material over the frame and then clamp the plier over it….becos if you use the plier directly over the frame, it may get damaged. ( I have not shown this here…because I wanted to show you how the plier is used)

There you are a lovely coin purse…….

Hope you found this useful…..do comment below and let me know what you think of this post and tell me if you found this useful…..I would really appreciate your feedback…;-)

How to keep your yarn from tangling while doing C2C graphghans

How to keep your yarn from tangling while doing C2C graphghans

How does one keep yarn from tangling when one is doing a C2C graphghan in crochet?

The first few pictures are of a 2 colour graphghan in the making.

The first thing I do when I think graphghan is roll out some shuttles depending on the requirement of each colour. There is nothing fancy about this. Weavers do this all the time…..They wind, small shuttles/bobbins full of the colour they need and keep them ready before they begin weaving. In India they usually use a small wooden peg. Here, since I don’t have a wooden peg and I think it may be unwieldy…I have used thick paper folded into shuttles that yarn or thread can be wound on.

For this 2 colour graphghan the  major colour is blue and the colour where the figure is coming in is silver white. So for the time begin I have wound up three shuttles, 2 with blue and one with white.

I am aware this will not be enough so…as I go by and am taking a break I will be  making some more shuttles. you can do this before you begin work too….

The next thing we will need is large washing pegs. These are somewhat middle sized….and since I can’t get large ones…I make sure that my shuttles are never too large. I have heard that Walmarts carry these giant washing pegs…so for those who live in the US or where you have a Walmarts can buy them from there.

Here, I worked the first 40 rows in just one colour working directly from the huge spool of yarn…..but once I had to change colours I began to use the shuttles.

Here is how I use the washing pegs…..only the shuttle that is currently being used is not pegged onto the work itself….the rest are secured. So as I finish the blue….I will move onto the white if necessary….And then I will peg in the blue and let free the white…and so  on. you can work in as many colours you like in this manner…..This is very useful especially when you reach the end of the row and have to flip your work over to begin the next row in C2C.

This is how I worked a C2C graphghan with many colours without getting it tangled…..

First 4 colours….

7 colours with the white repeating …so 8 shuttles…..

Crocheters use different methods….I find this most convenient.

Some use Hangers…They wind each colour directly onto the wash peg and clip the shuttles onto a clothes hanger….then when they reach the end of the row…they simply flip over the hanger along with the graphghan.

Others use boxes with holes in them. They bring out the working end of the yarn through the holes so that there is no chance of tangling……

I found some all of these pics on the internet…..

You must experiment and find which way you find the most handy to work with.

Star Burst Bauble/Hot Pad/Pendant

Star Burst

This is an extremely easy, fun project. We had this as part of a Weekly  challenge by my young,dynamic and talented pal, Tulasi K Reddy,  in our group and I just leapt at the chance…..mainly becos this was part of my to do list for the longest of time. It looks complicated to a novice but is really so easy and is an apt project for a beginner.

Material

You can use any thread you wish just adjust the hook size accordingly.

I used:

Soft Feather Nature’s cotton in Turquoise green and cobalt blue

Hook Size: 3:00mm. This is my favourtie size for Nature’s cotton yarn.

Abbreviations Used:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ss – slip stitch

Pattern

Make a Magic Circle

Round 1: Chain 3 up, 3dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; 4dc, 4 chain; ss.

 

Round 2: ss into the next dc; chain up and sc in same dc.

Now into the 3 chain loop –  sc,hdc,8 dc,hdc

sc in the second dc of previous round then repeat sc, hdc,8dc,hdc  in next loop….

Repeat until all 4 loops are covered.

Make 5 such squares

 

Joining the squares and forming another row around the squares:

Join the cobalt blue by an ss to the sc in between the 2 petals. then scs in every hdc and dc.

Continue until  you cover 2 petals or are mid way.

 

Now join the 2nd motif to the first using a sc.

 

 

Continue joining all the motifs one by one unitl you have a straight line.

Then continue the sc row on the lower part of every motif.

The pics I took of the joining part didn’t come out right….balancing the camera with one hand and trying to hold the petals open with another just didn’t work…..so am using this pic that I found in the net…..to show you how to join the motifs.

You need to take one half one petal of 2 motifs that lie adjecent to each other and join them with an sc…then move on to the next two petals. You will then get 5 petals.

 

Depending on the size you wish you can use yarn or thread.

Cotton Yarn gives a a size that cna be used as a coaster….Alternatively you can make this is 3  colours too….Using birght colours to use in a child’s room or jsut above the crib for your baby.

A talented crochet buddy, Dipti Mallapur, made this as a pendant in #40 thread and it looked glorious!

This is a great little piece to hook in when you just want to have fun and take it easy….I hope you do…

Have Fun!

 

Vintage Table Runner

Vintage Table Runner

Crochet Chronicles: 

My elderly Parents live with my sister or she lives with them….depending on how you wish to see it…:-) . Both of them are in their 80s and are active both mentally and physically. Though my Father suffers from Parkinsons ( He still hasn’t reached that stage where he needs help)…he is always positive and a wall of strength to all of us. My Mother holds our home together….and is such a superlative cook…that we look so forward to meal times. Now she has taught the lady who helps out at home, Vrindha all her culinary tricks so that even when she does become incapacitated…her darling grandsons will still get those scrumptious delights. Parents….What are we without them? Who will love us, care for us, worry about us and be there for us like them? As my Parents grow older and more feeble…..I feel this sense of fear and despair at facing a future without them.

But enough of such dark and despairing thoughts…The reason I wrote about my Parents is because, this particular runner was made at my Mother’s insistence. My sister bought a new dining table and a chest of drawers to go with it…and all my Mom’s old and beautiful collection of laces wouldn’t do for this. So My scrupulous Mom…who has exceedingly very high standards on what goes on her furniture rang me up and told me that she wanted me to make her a table runner.

I was so thrilled! I never thought that my work would ever be good enough for her….I know she loves pastels and white….so I made this one in shades of ice pink, peach, lolly pop pink and white, mint green, light yellow and white. Though the original pattern is all in white…I thought this made an interesting  picture. What do you think?

 

Materials Used:

Anchor cotton #20 in pastel shades and white. I used 5 balls of white and 10 gms and a little less of each of the other colors.

Hook 0.75mm I normally use 0.9mm to 1.25mm with #20 thread…but decided to experiment with a much smaller hook. I like the lacy effect, though hooking is hard on the hand.

Pattern:

Since this is a vintage pattern, there is no graph as such…but there is a written pattern at this link, below:

http://freevintagecrochet.com/doilies/7717-doily-pattern.html

And as Always…here is the photo tutorial….

Runner measures about 14 x 38½ inches.

Each motif measures about 3½ inches in diameter.

FIRST MOTIF

Starting at center, ch 6. Join with sl st to form ring.

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1st rnd: Ch 1, work 12 sc in ring. Join with sl st in 1st sc.

 

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2nd rnd: Ch 5 (to count as 1 dc and ch 2), * dc in next sc, ch 2. Repeat from * around, joining last ch-2 with sl st in 3rd st of starting ch-5 (12 sps).

 

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3rd rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc in same place as sl st, * ch 3, sc in next dc, ch 3, 3 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join.

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4th rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as sl st, * dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, ch 4, sc in next sc, ch 4, 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * around. Join.

 

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5th rnd: Ch 3, dc in same place as 3 ch, *dc in next dc, 2dc in next dc,  ch 3, skip 3 ch, sc in next sc, ch 3, 2 dc  in next dc. Repeat from * around, ending with ch 3, tr in 1st sc.

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Here I have changed the pattern from the original a little…

6th rnd: sc in same stitch as ss, Ch 7,  sc in top of tr just made, * ch 10, 1 sc in center st of next ch-7. Repeat from * around. Join.

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7th rnd: Sl st in next 2 dc, * in next loop make (4 sc, ch 4) 3 times and 4 sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off.

 

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SECOND MOTIF … Work same as for First Motif until 6th rnd is com­pleted.

 

7th rnd: Sl st in next 2 dc, * in next loop make 4 sc, ch 4 and 4 sc; ch 2, sl st in corresponding ch-4 loop on First Motif, ch 2, in same loop on Second Motif make 4 sc, ch 4 and 4 sc. Repeat from * once more. Complete rnd with no more joinings.

 

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Make 4 x 11 motifs, joining them as First Motif was joined to Second Mo­tif and leaving one large loop free be­tween joinings.

 

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Unfortunately..I was travelling while the next part was being hooked and the pics just didn’t come out right…..However the written pattern below will def help..

FILL-IN-MOTIF … Attach thread in center ch-4 loop of any large loop between joinings.

1st rnd: Ch 3, 2 dc where thread was attached, * ch 5, 3 dc in center ch-4 loop of next large loop. Repeat from * 2 more times; ch 5, sl st in 3rd st of starting ch-3.

2nd rnd: In next ch-5 loop make 4 sc, ch 5 and 4 sc, * 4 sc in next loop, ch 2, sl st in last ch-5 loop, ch 2, 4 sc in same loop as last 4 sc. Repeat from * around. Join and break off. Press through damp cloth. Starch lightly and press.

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Crochet Indian Vegetable(Karela/BitterGourd)

Crochet Indian Vegetable Motif(Karela/BitterGourd)

We Indians just love our veggies…….and have thousands and thousands of recipes for each vegetable. Our ancient and traditional meals are wholly balanced with proteins, carbs, vitamins,minerals etc taken into consideration….they r definetely not the over spiced oily version that seems to be passed off as Indian cooking commercially.

http://healthbenefitsofeating.com/fruit/15-health-benefits-karela/

One veggie that is a great favourite and is full of nutrients is Karela or Pavakka(bitter gourd). Since there aren’t any crochet Karela to be found…I have just created a motif pattern for this wonderful all Indian veggie.

Materials used

Anchor #20 green

Hook #1.25mm

Abbreviations Used

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ss – slip stitch

Pattern

Row 1

chain 4; 3dc into the first chain (4 stitches)

Row 2

3ch up, 1dc in same stitch(increase); 1 dc in the next 2 stitches; 2 dc into the last stitch(increase) (6 stitches)

Row 3

3ch up, 1dc in same stitch(increase); 1 dc in the next 4 stitches; 2 dc into the last stitch(increase) (8 stitches)

Row 4

3 ch up; dc in each of the following stitches (8 stitches)

Row 5

3 ch up;  decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc; decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc; dc in dc (6 stitches)

Row 6

3 ch up;decrease by one in the next 2 stitches;decrease by one in the next 2 stitches; dc in dc (4 stitches)

Cut the thread.

Now you need to make the ridges on the Karela..

Make a ss and join to the tip of the motif. We will be working on the top of the motif…working in a vertical line across the surface of the motif.

we will be making 3 ridge lines along the motif.

the pattern for the ridge line is….

ss, sc; hdc,hdc, sc, ss;

Repeat this until the end of the line…u don’t have to cut the thread…just make another ss and return along the next line to the other end and then one more time.

Now ss around the motif and when you reach the narrowest tip 2 chs; ss in the first ch (this creates a very thin and narrow tip) and continue ss until the rest of the motif.

Recipes for Karela

https://www.tarladalal.com/recipes-using-bitter-gourd-214

Japanese Flower Motif Coasters

Japanese Flower Motif Coasters

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These Motifs were just waiting to be made……And I went for it when A Dear Friend and talented crocheted Amanpreet Sokhi created a CAL for it.

 

Here is a graph of the Japanese Flower Motif…….

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This Graph is slightly different…in the last row.

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Here is a Russian blog with a pic tutorial……

http://olavas.blogspot.ae/2011/04/oppskrift-pa-japansk-blomst.html

Another Blog with a tutorial…

http://wouldyoulikeyarnwiththat.blogspot.ae/2012/05/japanese-flower-motif-free-pattern.html?m=1

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HAve fun doing this one..:-D!!

Crochet Rose

Crochet Rose

 

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Crochet Chronicles:

Aren’t roses beautiful? I have yet to meet a person who doesn’t love this glorious genre of flowers. And this is seen in the profusion of patterns created and posted by so many talented crocheters . So today I thought let me make a little rose to go with the hairband that I posted here last week.  This pattern is a very simple one and a very popular one as well….

Materials Used:

Red Rose Thread #10

Hook : 1.5 mm

Tapestry needle

Method:

Depending on how big and how many layers you want your rose to be…Hook in chains in multiples of 3….each 3 chains represents a petal. I am making a little rose to fit in with the hair band that I made.

Hook in 39 chains plus 3. Total 42 chains.

Row 1:

3 ch, skip 3 chains and dc in 4th chain; *3ch, skip 3chains and dc in 4th chain*….continue ** until the end. what you get is a pattern like a ladder…….with 3 chain loops.

 

Row 2:

Now we create the petal on top  of first row.

chain up, sc,hdc, 6 dcs, hdc,sc in the first 3 chain loop created.  hook in *sc,hdc, 6 dcs, hdc,sc*  in the next 3 chain loop and continue until the end.13187647_557521214435258_794491675_n

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Now, slowly roll the petals using the ladder part as the stem. Make sure that when you roll the petals around each other it forms not the shape of a rose. Use a tapestry needle to sew the stem and the inner petals in place so that it stays together.

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And voila…You have a lovely little rose…:-)

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Here are some graphs to make roses uses different combinations of stitches in almost the same way.

crochet flower 46 crochet-flower-patterns-diagrams-craft-craft-6tsvetyi-kryuchkom-6-288x30073eeac1379aba76768baa0da84259d9a-2

Just to practice do try to make some of the other roses as well…..Enjoy yourselves..and above all ..Keep that smile on..Love and Hugs…:-)

Crochet Hair Band

Crochet Hair Band

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Crochet Chronicles:

I don’t have a little girl and I don’t have friends who have little  girls…..All my pal’s daughters, are all grown up and would throw a fit if I even mentioned hair bands…So I have had to use my thick skull as a measurement for this one…:-) Measure your little Princess’s head from the bottom of the left earlobe  all the way across to the bottom of the right earlobe.

Materials Needed for the Hair Band: 

Laura Kitting Cotton  in any color of your choice

Hook : 3:00mm

Nature’s Cotton Yarn

Hook : 2.5 mm

( I haven’t mentioned the amount of yarn required because it is really very minimal)

Elastic(optional) I have used satin ribbon. You can fix a piece of elastic ribbon to attach the two end of the hair band.

Pattern:

You can use any pattern that you wish in 1 or 2 rows to make that band. Since this blog post is for beginner’s I have used  half double crochet(hdc) and double crochet(dc)

Row 1

Make a chain of 75 plus 2. total 77 chains. The last 2 chains are the ones that will create one side of the hair band and will carry you to the next row.

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Row 2: 

hdc in every ch to the end, 3 chs up

 

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Row 3:

dc in every hdc to the end, 2 chs up

 

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Row 4:

hdc in every dc to the end..cut the yarn and tuck the ends into the band.

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Row 5:

The actually works all the way around except at the two ends…

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Add a thinner thread to create a lacey, shell effect around the hairband. I used Nature’s cotton yarn..with a 2.5mm hook.

add the yarn to the first hdc on one side.

3 ch, 2 dc, in the same hdc;

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Skip 2 hdc, ss into the third hdc,

*3 ch and 2dc into same hdc as ss

Skip 2 hdc, ss into the third hdc*.

Continue ** until end of row. then at the turn hook in hdc, 2ch, hdc; 2 ch hdc;

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Then, ss in hdc; then continue **, again at the turn – hook in hdc, 2ch; hdc, 2dc; hdc; ss.

Now attach the required lengths of ribbon/yarn / fabric to both the end of the band , so that you have equal lengths of these on both the sides so that you can tie it and the nape of the neck securing the hair band safely.

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Different ways to make the hairband even more beautiful.

I have used a ribbon and pulled it through the middle dcs of the hairband. You can make a crochet rose or a crochet heart  to accentuate this.

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Try different things for e.g.; a crochet butterfly, or  a satin ribbon flower, a piece of metal jewelry , a brooch anything really….play with your imagination…:-)

There…wasn’t that easy to do? Using the same stitches you can change the pattern ..instead a block of dcs and hdcs you can create a ladder like pattern by hooking in chains in-between the dcs… You can make the hairband much wider or thinner. You can use beads. You will remember how we learnt to use beads and crochet in one of our first lessons.

I hope you practice and make a few hairbands…you can shorten the length of the hairband and use it as a choker ..would’t that be lovely?

Crochet Diamonds

How to Crochet  A Diamond Shape

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Crocheting the diamond shape is not challenging….you just need to understand the increase/decrease concept….but joining them to make a coherent and beautiful project is challenging. I have often thought that, you can’t do much with this shape in crochet until I saw Jellina’s crochet in geometric patterns. To say that she is a genius would be an understatement.

I have shown you 2 ways to do the diamond motif

Diamond Motif 1: Where you hook in a diamond using single crochet(scs)..this is the Jellina way

Diamond Motif 2: The Diamond is worked using double crochets(dcs)

Abbreviations:

Chain – ch
Single Crochet – sc
Stitch – st
Skip – sk
Yarn Over – yo
Double Crochet – dc

Diamond Motif 1

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Our first pattern for the diamond motif is made with single crochet stitches.

This pattern is from  the blog little Woolie….I have shared her link at the end of the page. I suggest that you go through her blog…She specialises in crochet diamonds and her work is Beautiful.

BASIC DIAMOND PATTERN

Begin With:

Ch 2

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Row 1: 2 sc into 2nd ch from hook, turn.

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Row 2:  Ch1(turning chain) 1sc into first st, 2sc into 2nd st, turn.

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Row 3: Ch1, 1sc into 1st st, 1sc into 2nd st, 2sc into last st, turn.

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Row 4: Ch1, 1sc into 1st st, 1sc into each st across until last st, 2sc into last st, turn.

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Repeat row 4 until you have  as many stitches as you like, more stitches means a bigger diamond . For this tutorial I have stopped with Row 4.

Start decreasing.
The decrease pattern is as follows:

Ch1, sk 1st st, sc into next st and each st across, turn. (reduces by 1 st in each row)

DSC_9764
Continue doing this to each row until you have 1 st left and fasten off.

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Here are some patterns using the sc.

How to crochet a diamond

http://www.jellina-creations.nl/blog/patroontje-ruit

http://www.ehow.com/how_8302223_crochet-diamond-section.html

How to crochet a diamond Afghan

http://www.jellina-creations.nl/blog/patroontje-ruit

How to crochet a diamond

Diamond Motif 2

Here, we hook in the diamond shape with double crochet stitches(dcs)

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These graphs are off the internet and I thought that they are very well illustrated.

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Begin with 4 chains

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Row 1:

dc into 4th chain from hook. Turn (2)

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Row 2:

3 Chain up, dc in same stitch; 2 dc in next stitch (4). Turn

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Row 3:

3 Chain up, dc in same stitch;  one dc in next 2 stitches; 2 dc in last stitch; (6). Turn

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Row 4:

3 Chain up, dc in same stitch; one dc in next 4 stitches; 2 dc in last stitch; (8). Turn

Row 5:

DSC_9780

3 Chain up, dc in same stitch; one dc in next 6 stitches; 2 dc in last stitch; (10). Turn

Depending on how big you want your diamond to be keep increasing the dcs in the beginning and end of each row. In the graph above the designer has gone up to 9 rows. I have stopped at Row 5.

What you have now is a triangle, in order to get a diamond shape and taper that end…we have to begin decreasing the dcs. Since we increased the dcs by 2 in each row to get this triangle…..we now have to reduce the dcs by 2 each row to get that diamond.

Decreasing the Stitches

Please Note…that from now on, you chain up by 2 at the beginning of each row

Row 1:

DSC_9781

2 chain up, dc in same stitch; dc in each of the next 8 stitches; 2 dc in the last stitch;(12). Turn.

Note that though I have mentioned decrease…in this row we have actually increased the stitches by 2….it’s just part of the pattern to get a smooth decrease.

Row 2:

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2 chain up; dc in next stitch {( This works out like a dc 2 together and is a decreasing stitch), cos though you have put in 2 stitches…the effect is only one stitch…Just count the chains to confirm this};

dcs in the next 8 stitches;

dc in the 9th stitch…but do not complete the stitch …leave 2 loops on the hook and yarn over(yo), push your hook into the last stitch of the previous row, You have 4 loops on the hook, yo, reduce by 2, now you have 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 2 loops.

Count your stitches and you will find that you have reduced the total count by 2……that is you have only 10 stitches now.

Row 3:

Continue as in Row 3…and you reduce the stitches by 2 getting 8 stitches.

Row 4:

Reduced by 2….6 stitches

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Row 5:

4 stitches

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Row 6:

2 stitches…and you are done..!!!

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Personally I prefer the dc method…it has more finesse…..but then each to her/his own.

Examples of Work using diamonds from the net:

A Diamond Baby Blanket

Made by http://solgrim.blogspot.ae/2015/02/harlequin-blanket.html?spref=piage Continue reading Crochet Diamonds